Day-to-Day Rock Climbing Harness Essentials

I’m teaching a series of clinics at the Teton Rock Gym here in Driggs. The theme is “real world” climbing efficiency and rescue skills. As part of that, we’ve been brainstorming exactly what you should be carrying on your harness for safety, efficiency, and comfort. These lists are in addition to harness, helmet and your normal “rack”. Rack includes protection, quickdraws/slings, and whatever anchor material is appropriate for your skills and the route’s anchoring opportunities. In other words, this is what you should be carrying in addition to cams, ‘draws, cordellettes and other longer slings. We’ll look at lists for a few different contexts and roles.

Notably, belay devices are now specialized. A casual-to-dedicated climber can no longer justify owning just one belay device. Technology has improved enough that we should be expecting one another to have the right tool for the job, for safety’s sake. Yes, a team of two, on a multi-pitch climb, will intentionally carry two different types of belay devices. Work out a system in which the right tool ends up with the right person.

Typical Sport Climbing

  • Cam-action assisted braking belay device (Petzl Grigri is the best) with dedicated carabiner. Petzl’s Freino carabiner is worth the expense.

  • Two stand-alone locking carabiners. Any shape.

  • That’s right. That’s all I carry in that context. Anything you need to do can be done with this combo.

Following multi-pitch climbs

  • Nut/cleaning tool

  • small knife

  • two stand-alone locking carabiners

  • double length sling on its own non-locking carabiner

  • “Prussik loop”. Either tied 6mm cordage or purpose built sewn product like a Sterling “Hollowblock”. Something just over a foot long, in its tied/sewn form

  • Small ascender. Petzl Tibloc, Camp Lift etc.

  • Assisted belay device on its own locking carabiner. Belay the leader with some sort of modern, assisted belay technology. Best is a device that can also be used to rappel on two rope strands.

    • Best: Edelrid Mega or Giga Jul, Mammut Smart Alpine, CT Alpine Up

    • Next best: Mammut Smart, CT Click-up, BD Pilot, Grigri (none of these can rappel two rope strands)

    • Borderline unacceptable: Petzl Reverso, BD ATC Guide and the like. (none of these offer assisted lead belay function)

    • Unacceptable: Regular plate style device with no assisted belay function.

  • (optional) Cordellette on its own non-locking carabiner. Especially while you are learning, having a stand-alone cordellette (that won’t be counted on for use in anchors) is very helpful. 12-20 feet of 6mm perlon cord.

Leading Multi-Pitch climbs

  • Three stand-alone locking carabiners

  • Double length sling on its own non-locking carabiner

  • “Prussik loop”. Either tied 6mm cordage or purpose-built sewn product like a Sterling “Hollowblock”. Something just over a foot long, in its tied/sewn form

  • Small ascender. Petzl Tibloc, Camp Lift etc.

  • Plaquette style belay device on its own locking carabiner. Belay the second with some sort of modern, assisted belay technology. Best is a device that can also be used to rappel on two rope strands and is matched to your rope and rope system. If the device can also be pressed into function for assisted belay of a leader, that’s a bonus.

    • Best for fatter ropes: Camp OVO or Kong Gigi.

    • Best for skinny to average ropes: Giga Jul, ATC Guide, Reverso

    • Best for walk-off climbs: Petzl Grigri.

    • Unacceptable: Regular plate style device with no assisted belay function.

  • (optional) Cordellette on its own non-locking carabiner. Especially while you are learning, having a stand-alone cordellette (that won’t be counted on for use in anchors) is very helpful. 12-20 feet of 6mm perlon cord.

What an all-around climber should own

Here’s another way to look at it. I’ve mashed these lists together to leave you equipped to play any of the roles in any of the major, typical rock climbing settings. In other words, this is the set of gear I take on any all-around rock climbing road trip. In addition, of course, to harness, helmet, shoes, ropes, rack etc.

  • Petzl Grigri with associated carabiner. The Petzl Freino carabiner really is worthwhile.

  • Plaquette style belay device with associated carabiner. I use the Petzl Reverso.

  • “Two hole” assisted braking device with associated carabiner. Edelrid Mega Jul.

  • Double length sling on its own non-locking carabiner

  • Three more screw gate carabiners. Various shapes and sizes.

  • Small ascender. Camp Lift.

  • Prussik Loop. Sterling Holloblock.

  • Small knife. Tiny, cheap, locking blade, taped closed, equipped with a keeper string

  • Cordellette on its own non-locking carabiner. 12-20 feet of 6mm perlon cord.

  • Nut tool.

Jediah Porter