Denali Ski Expedition 2022 Gear List and Thoughts
We’re headed toward the summit of Denali in late May. With skis. (To the public: This trip is filled for 2022. Drop me a line if you want to arrange your own such trip for the future. A trip of this magnitude is generally years in the making. In the meantime, maybe there is something interesting here for you to see). The below is written for a team of three, all with significant prior expedition experience and all hoping to ski as much as conditions allow. Post trip updates/thoughts/clarifications in bold.
Ski Gear
Boots. Simple, proven, warm, optimized touring boots. I’ll use the Scarpa F1 LT, one shell size bigger than is typical for me, with an aftermarket addition of the thick version of Intuition’s Pro Tour liner. This didn’t really work for me. Well, obviously, it “worked”, as we completed the trip. But the oversized, lightweight boot strategy isn’t one that I will repeat nor is it one that I’ll recommend others repeat on a trip like this. First, the weight of the boots. Yes, Denali is strenuous ski mountaineering. With strenuous ski mountaineering, I lean toward lightening the boots for energy efficiency. But, with big backpacks and the acclimatization pace, it is a different, slower sort of strenuous. Light, nimble touring boots don’t make the same difference here (on the way up) that they do elsewhere. Further, the skiing is generally on tough snow, with heavy loads. Beefy boots would be better. Next, sizing… You’ve gotta size up to some degree. Though quantifying how much to size up is hard. The “two finger shell fit” rule is a great place to start. Which, for many of those dedicated to the down, is a huge “size up” move. On the other hand, long time, comfort-oriented touring dorks are already doing their day-to-day backcountry skiing in boots with that sort of Denali fit. I’m in this latter category, as it pertains to boots. I like mine big. I needn’t have gone even bigger for Denali. The flimsy boots, sized way too big, required even more “adaptation” to my ski technique and attention than I am accustomed to.
Ski boot overboots. Close fitting and practiced-with. Make the ski binding modifications back at home and then practice with them. I use FortyBelow brand. Though the new OR brand option is intriguing. Gotta have ‘em, especially if you’re doing “just” two finger shell fit. We had ridiculously warm summit day temps. Even then, my feet got a touch cold. The overboots were key.
Skis with light, proven touring bindings. Expedition skis should be wicked versatile, proven, and light. If you have a choice, or will be getting something special for this trip, aim for 95-100mm underfoot and 1100-1400 grams per ski. With light tech bindings with leashes (in addition to brakes, if you have brakes. We use leashes on glaciers for crevasse matters). I’m testing a few different contenders. Likely the Fischer Hannibal 96. I used the Dynastar M Tour 99. Great ski. Maybe lighter and wider than necessary or desirable. But certainly good enough. Anything in that 90-100, all around touring ski category, from late model years, will work great.
Skins. I go on expeditions with somewhat "fresh" skins. Use a brand new version of a model you've used before or (better yet) make sure you do 8-10 involved (multiple transitions) tours to make sure they'll hold up. An expedition is no place to experiment with the weirder "glue" types; go with traditional glued skins.
Poles. Normal, classic adjustable ski touring poles. With wrist straps. Adjustability is nice when we use ski poles for various camping tasks.
Spikes and tech gear
Ski crampons. Make sure they work with your bindings and that they are the right size. They are sized in millimeters and usually available in 10mm increments. Get the size that is equal to or just bigger than your ski waist width. Even then, make sure they actually fit.
Ice axe. Light and short and simple. Some like to insulate the head of their Denali ice axe. I personally don’t do this as the padding/insulation inevitably comes off when using the ice axe to pound pickets or scratch a t-slot.
Boot crampons. Light and simple. 10-12 points, steel. Make sure they work with "bare" boots and with overboots. And can swap between these two modes with no tools required. Some find that fully clip on work better with their overboots, while some find that the strapped toe is better. Do some experiments on your end. I used a modified pair of CAMP’s all steel ski mountaineering crampons. Modified to replace the plastic toe “bail” with a standard steel wire style. To better work with overboots. They’re light, sharp, and low profile. Maybe too low profile. Next time I’d go with more typical “all around” mountaineering crampons. On the regular West Buttress route, with steps kicked in everywhere, light crampons are totally suitable. On the more serious ski options, extensive down climbing (or the prospect of down-climbing) on firm snow to ice is unappealing-to-sketchy in ultralight crampons like I chose.
Helmet. I use a climbing helmet in expedition skiing. Mainly, because it has less padding and such to get wet and need to dry out. Further, we wear them in certain spots on Denali for protection from overhead hazard. Climbing helmets are built to protect against this. Ski helmets are not. See "goggles" section for a little more on helmets. Next time, take a sun hat that works better under a helmet. Like, a baseball style hat but with no “ouch button”.
Harness. Light, but not the lightest. The Blue Ice Choucas Pro is the sweet spot. Full functioned, light and can be put on over giant boots and even over crampons/skis if needed.
Crevasse Rescue kit. This is per person
Small, modern progress capture pulley. Like the Petzl Microtraxion or the like. Must work with 6mm to 9mm ropes.
Small, modern improvised ascender like a Petzl Tibloc. Also, must be approved for use on 6mm and up ropes.
Larger ascender. Regular handled ascender works, as does a specialized toothless device like the Camp Lift. Each has its pros and cons. No need for both.
8x regular, full size wire gate non locking carabiners. CAMP Proton is the ideal size and weight.
3x light pear shaped screw gate carabiners.
1x primary attachment locking carabiner. "triple action" closure.
25-30 feet of 6mm accessory cord
1x double length runner
Clothes.
3x pair ski Socks. Proven, reliable, relatively new so as to not be pre-worn-out. I stow a brand new, totally unworn pair in a vacuum sealed bag. These get deployed for the summit day. Otherwise I alternate between the other two.
1 pair camp/lounging socks
"Every day" pants. Can be regular soft shells climbing/ski pants, or something more specialized like the Arc Teryx Proton or Patagonia Nano Air pants. I use Proton pants. If I can get ahold of a new pair of this discontinued product. Either way, make sure the cuff is configured for sealing out snow while also leaving your boot buckles readily accessible. The Proton Pant strategy is the best. I wish these were still made, by any company.
1x Long underwear. I took no long underwear. Only my “pajama” pants as described below. I personally don’t like the feel of long underwear. I had a total 4 pant system: running pant “pajamas”, proton pants, shell pants, puffy pants.
Light shell pants. Full zip. (I use Arc Teryx Alpha SL)
Puffy pants. Full zip, fully insulated. I use Feathered Friends Volant Pants. Could likely get away with 3/4 length lighter puffy pants.
2-3 sets of undergarments
1-2x Syn/wool baselayer top. Long sleeve and/or short sleeve 1 is plenty
"Sun hoody". Lots of good options on the market One with a chest pocket is key for my system. For holding the phone.
Mid weight hooded base layer. Fleece. Thumb loops. Chest pocket.
Wind breaker jacket. I use Arc Teryx Squamish Hoody
Light puffy jacket. I use Arc Teryx Nuclei FL. It isn't wrong to consider two light puffy jackets. Maybe the second is a vest or doesn't have a hood or is that fancy "air permeable" type. Proton LT plus a vest would be perfect. I took two full light puffy jackets, hoods and all, and that was too much.
Shell jacket. Waterproof. Arc Teryx Alpha SL.
Parka. Baffled down jacket. The biggest one you've got or can acquire, within reason. I use Arc Teryx Ceres. Patagonia Grade VII would also work. Plus lots of other options.
Glove system. Hands are crucial. Work hard on getting a great system for protecting them. Think of how all the parts will "work together".
1x Lower glacier gloves. I like adaptable "skimo racing" gloves like the CAMP G Comp Warm. Bonus points if you can fit your full big gloves over these.
1-2x Primary warm gloves. Dextrous, no gauntlet, no removable liner, insulated with something more than fleece. I use discontinued CAMP Geko Hot. The CAMP K Warm is better than the new version of the CAMP Geko Hot. There are dozens of other options out there. The best ones will have a leather palm and fingers, with no waterproof membrane in them. The waterproof membrane dramatically slows their drying time. I had one pair of these and that was appropriate.
1x Big gloves. Removable liner. You'll use these in many different configurations. Choose and fit them such that you can wear the shell over a pair of your primary warm gloves. Also, choose and fit them such that you can wear the full version of these Big gloves over your lightest gloves. I use Arc Teryx Rush SV gloves. The Black Diamond Guide glove is more standard in this category.
Lightest gloves. This phrase conjures images of stretchy/fleecy "liner gloves". And those work. Many use exactly that in this "category". However, I find those flimsy types of liners incredibly non-dextrous, especially given the warmth provided. Best, in my opinion, in this category, is uninsulated work style gloves. Not that different than what you'd find at a hardware store, next to and just a little more expensive than the all-leather work glove types. Essentially, we're looking for a secure, dextrous layer to put between you and cold metal parts while conducting fiddly tasks like putting on crampons and such. I use CAMP K Air gloves in this category. These are somewhat redundant with the “lower glacier gloves” mentioned above. I’d swap the work style gloves here for super light, thin, stretchy liner gloves. Liner gloves really only useful on summit day beneath the big gloves and/or insulated mittens.
Insulated mittens. Gauntlet style, big enough to fit over your primary warm gloves. I use Camp Summit'n.
In summary, go for a 5 glove system: 1: lower glacier gloves. Either work glove style, or skimo race style. Light, sun protective, durable, dextrous, grippy. 2: day-to-day warm gloves. 3: big gloves (which are actually two parts- liner and shell. Keep it that way. 4: liner “60-second” gloves. 5: big mitts.
Warm hat. Or two if you are bald like me. Make sure that one covers your ears and works with your helmet. The other can be more "stylie" for around camp and sleeping and such. I just took one.
2x buff/balaclava.
Neoprene face mask. The kind that velcros around the back of your neck is best.
Sun hat For skiing especially, take one without an “ouch button”, for wear beneath helmet.
Sunglasses. Dark, full coverage. I have sensitive eyes, so I usually bring two pairs of sunglasses. One set is "normal" sporty sunglasses and the other is full on expedition "glacier glasses". It is nice to have redundancy. And it is worth putting some care into this choice. I’m not very well versed in the glacier glasses options currently. I use the Julbo Explorer. It is worth trying them on “in person”. Outdoor stores and optometrists alike can help you out. An optometrist might have real good options for both fit and lens matters. You could find frames that work well and have lenses custom tinted to be real dark. Make sure that light is blocked from the side. With either purpose-built shields or improvised add-ons.
Let’s talk sunglasses “nose guard” too. I’ve found that a duct-tape improvised nose guard is the most comfortable, but the commercially available velcro ones are easier to put on and off. You can commit to a more comfortable option, or have a less comfortable option that can be added and removed as you like. I personally go with a commercial one so that I can remove it entirely when I don’t need it.
goggles. With either transitioning lenses or interchangeable dark and light lenses. Make sure they work with your climbing helmet. Experiment with attaching goggles to climbing helmet "skimo racer" style. Zip tie the rear of the helmet strap to the lower rear of the helmet and tape over the inside of the front vent holes (where the goggles would sit unused on your helmet, so that you don't steam up the goggles when the goggles are sitting unused on the helmet.) Joining helmet and goggles is nice for a variety of reasons. Mainly, your helmet can protect the goggles while in transit. Goggles are so seldom in use. They’re really just summit day items. I’ll be searching for a light, flexible, cheap pair that works with my face mask and helmet, rather than carrying my big, nice, expensive, interchangeable lens jobs through the whole trip.
Pajamas. Yes, no joke. Be cozy in camp. I bring super lite running pants (light long underwear would work too) and a cotton t-shirt. If your “everyday” pants are warm enough, your summit long underwear can remain pretty clean and comfy until above 14k and serve, until then, as just pajama bottoms. My light running pants also served as my long underwear.
Camp footwear. Down booties. The two-part option from Feathered Friends is nice as you can more comfortably sleep in the inner part and can also wear it around camp inside your boot shells.
Safety and Camping Gear, etc:
Transceiver, Shovel, Probe. (not yet sure if we'll take transceivers. Also, how many probes and shovels we take will be a group decision). We had very, very good snow stability. Carrying transceiver and 3x shovels and probes felt silly. Though, with more “normal” snowfall amounts, having Ava gear is wise.
Pack. 80-100 liters or so. "Conventional" on Denali is to take a 100+ liter, full frame, structured expedition backpack like the Osprey Aether Plus 100. That is exactly what you want for the biggest camp move days. Especially those camp move days that are either "single carries" or done without a sled. Thing is, though, that days that match that description are few. In most cases, you'll max out the capacity of a giant pack like that on just three of the expedition's days. The rest of the time, with a full function 100L pack, you will have more backpack than you need, in terms of bulk, weight (6-8 lbs, depending), and capacity. I choose to suffer on the three big days and have a better time during the other 15+ days... My Denali backpack choice is a Cold Cold World Chaos. A 3 lb frameless pack that is advertised to hold 70L but seems to hold as much as most 85-90l packs. There are precious few packs like this available. Dave’s customized Alpine Luddites pack was a big success. Jake used the BD mission 75. Lots of good options. Others are successfully using HMG 4400 packs up there. Especially for skiing, steer clear of the huge 100L full-frame packs.
100L Duffel bag. Soft and light is crucial. What makes good luggage is different than what makes a good sled duffel. The sturdy, vinyl "expedition" duffels are great for planes and jeeps and donkeys, but overkill for sleds on Denali. Keep it simple for Denali. The REI "Roadtripper 100" is nearly perfect and incredibly affordable, relative to other options. Rigid luggage and ski bag will stay in town.
Cache bag. 30+ liter ultralight stuff sack. Used when we carry stuff ahead and leave it for later retrieval. You can bring a dedicated bag, or we can repurpose bags we have used to pack and organize food.
Down Sleeping bag. Rated to between -40 and -20f. In a stuff sack. (Rental available from Feathered Friends).
2x Insulated Sleeping pad. I use a full-length Thermarest NeoAir XTherm, plus a regular closed cell foam pad. You can go warmer and/or slightly more comfortable than the NeoAir XTherm, but any of those options are much heavier. My exact foam choice is a "tent floor liner" from FortyBelow. It can be spread out to cover the entire tent floor, with some curling up the sides. It can be folded in half lengthwise to provide max insulation for the coldest nights up high. Finally, it can be folded into a semi-rigid form factor that serves as the "frame" of my otherwise frameless backpack. If an entire tent group is equipped with these tent floor foam pieces, the entire tent floor can be covered with no gaps. The wider Thermarest Xtherm is worthy… Hogs some tent space, but worthwhile.
Pillow case. I use the cotton storage stuff sack from my sleeping bag. Fill it with extra clothing for a super deluxe basecamp pillow.
Camp life "butt pad". I use a 2x3 foot piece of old closed cell foam sleeping pad.
Eating and drinking utensils and containers:
1 sturdy, cold-ready, screw/snap lid plastic bowl (ca .5-1 liter. I use a screw lid "Fair Share Mug". Good tupperware is sweet too).
fork, spoon.
Insulated, screw lid thermos/mug- plastic. Must seal well enough to put in your pack and sleeping bag. I use an insulated Camelbak brand bike style bottle. 17oz. The lid of it has the same dimensions and threads as a wide mouth 1L Nalgene. I replace the nipple lid of the bike bottle with a fool-proof solid lid.
Water bottles. 2 wide mouth Nalgene 1 liter bottles. Lids are -not coincidentally- interchangeable with my insulated mug. Nothing more, nothing less.
Insulated cover for all three of the above bottles. Make the Nalgene covers close fitting and purpose built. OR and FortyBelow make good ones. A cover for your insulating bottle/mug can be improvised. I've got a pair of regular beer can coozies that I use to cover the entirety of the mug.
Pee bottle. Disposable, 1-2 quart/liter. Different shape than your water bottles. If you use nalgene for water bottles, use a gatorade bottle for your pee bottle. Or something like that. I personally get a 2 quart plastic bottle of grocery store juice. I drink that juice in the first day(s) of the trip and then use the bottle for pee. I dispose of the bottle after the trip. Women have good luck with a wide-mouth plastic jar like peanuts and cashews come in.
Headlamp. With battery power. Use the "lock mode", remove the batteries for transport or somehow do what it takes to keep the light from coming on inadvertently. We won't use this much in May in Alaska... Never used. But sorta gotta have for potential crevasse rescue matters. Keep it wicked small.
Couple ski straps each
Toiletries/other:
Toilet Paper. 1 roll per person per trip. And ration accordingly.
Hand sanitizer. 2 small bottles per person per trip. Keep the second sealed and double wrapped until the second half of the trip.
toothbrush, floss, toothpaste. Bring the right amount. I use pill style tooth "paste" and count out exactly the right amount prior to the trip. But not everyone is this neurotic...
eye care. Contacts, solution, eye glasses, etc.
altitude meds, personal meds, pain relief, small blister kit.
sunscreen. Bring multiple types of sunscreen. I go with three kinds: regular 50 spf lotion, thick "goopy" zinc (like dermatone in the tin) and a "stick" of rub on zinc. Don't need tons and tons of volume of sunscreen, as pretty much only our faces are exposed. Echo the recommendation for not needing tons of volume. Better to have a variety of types in small amounts than any one type in large amounts.
More skin care. Glacier life is hard on the skin. Lotions, lip balm, wipes, foot powder etc
"Shake and warm" Hand and toe warmers. 2-3 sets, max.
Ear plugs (camp sites can be windy and therefore loud. Ear plugs can ensure adequate rest)
Smartphone loaded up with entertainment and enough extra battery power to get you through extended tent-bound sessions. We'll have some basecamp solar power, but having your own extra batteries and cords is wise.
Headphones/earbuds. Cordless ones are actually quite nice for sleeping bag life.
Journal/notebook and pencil. I never used mine on this trip. Still, bring a small emergency one. But not the multiple large notebooks that I had.
Daytime snack foods. I'll have some basic snack foods (granola bars, fruit snacks, etc) for you to choose from at the beginning of the trip. Any specialized daytime food you like to have, bring that from home.
Camera. With appropriate storage, carry, and charging capability.
Watch. With appropriate charging capability.
Satellite comms. I'll have satellite communications for emergency use. It isn't wrong to bring your own satellite communicator if you have one.
Pee funnel for women. Seems like the "freshette" is preferred.
Technique Tips for Packing Personal Gear:
Pack a “summit kit” in a vacuum seal bag, compressed and shaped for easy packing and caching. This is stuff we won’t need until established at and moving above 14k. A vacuum sealed “brick” of these items keeps them dry, contained, and fresh while also making the bundle easier to pack and shuffle around. This could include: puffy pants, summit mitts, summit socks, extra undergarments, 1-2 sets of hand and toe warmers, neoprene face mask, overboots.
Consider mentally organizing various sub-kits of your gear.
There will be the collection of stuff that goes on every excursion away from camp. Whether caching, scouting, acclimating or moving camp, these things need to go with us. Pack, clothes, eye protection, crevasse kit, helmet, harness, rope(s) and suitable travel gear (skins, skis, crampons, ski crampons, ice axe, depending)
There will be your camp life kit that probably goes back and forth between sleeping and kitchen tents. Bowl, utensils, hand sanitizer, thin gloves, sat comm device, camera/phone, notebook, eye/sun protection.
We’ll leave some things behind on our way up the mountain, for later retrieval. Rain gear is one such thing, sometimes and for some “clothing systems”. I personally use my shell pants all the way up, but usually leave my waterproof shell jacket behind.
Random thoughts on camp life and such:
We'll leave ski bags, rigid luggage, and town clothes in semi-secure storage in Talkeetna.
We'll have a sleeping tent for three and a roomy kitchen/hang out tent. We actually used one tent. A 4 person Hilleberg. The vestibule is huge and we dug it out for cooking in. Sorta cramped, but it worked.
Most of the “luxury items” (sleeping comforts, more elaborate kitchen equipment) won’t go above 14k.
I'll cover all the kitchen gear and meals and such. More here later on that.
We'll poop in a bucket and then carry full buckets back to Talkeetna. It's weird, but actually has some immediate advantages over just burying it. Of course, this also keeps the mountains there much cleaner for the next groups.
Group Gear:
Kitchen
Stoves and fuel bottles
pots and pans
Pot insulators
Pot grippers
Group utensils
cutting board
Rope
We will have at least two ropes in the group. For skiing unroped, it is crucial that the rope system separates the rope into at least two different people’s backpacks. In this institutional setting we will likely have a total of three ropes on the expedition: Two lightweight, modern glacier ski ropes and one sturdier “workhorse” rope.
Climbing hardware
Pickets
shovels. Both aluminum and sturdier versions
Probes
Extra carabiners
Extra slings
Emergency response
First aid kit
Altitude meds
Pulse oximeter
Ski, kitchen, shelter, and clothing repair kits
Communications, electronics, etc
Radio configured for talking within the group, to other groups and to the NPS. Two radios. One large and full-featured, one small and FRS only.
Two-way texting device for routine, day-to-day comms with those back home. And for weather forecast information.
Satellite phone for voice communications in the event of an emergency or the need for more nuanced communications
Solar charging
Extra battery power
Ultralight monocular
Jed’s nice camera setup
Basecamp Cache:
It is conventional for a team to leave itself a stash of extra and luxury items at the Kahiltna airstrip or the base of Ski Hill. There are essentially two categories of equipment one might leave here: Luxury items for the end of the trip, prior to flying off the glacier (which can fill hours or days, weather dependent) and extra supplies/equipment that the team could go back to retrieve, within reason. All the teams through a given guide service coordinate to share a primary cache of some basic redundant extras, while each team assembles its own luxury items. Private parties each assemble their own cache, combining luxury items and extras. Specific items left at the airstrip (commonly referred to as “Denali Basecamp” or just “Basecamp”, even though teams spend few to no nights there) can include:
Extra and nicer food (shelf stable, of course)
Celebratory intoxicants
Shelter
Stove
Skins
Shovel
Crampons
Extra skis
Ski pole or two
And any other “extra” equipment that would be a “deal breaker”. It isn’t horribly convenient to return to the airstrip for replacement equipment, but it is a heck of a lot more convenient than returning all the way to civilization.